ARTICLE: A GUIDE FOR USING SWIMBAITS TO CATCH GIANT BASS by Steve vonBrandt
  When I first heard of all these giant bass being caught on swimbaits in the West Coast, I wasn't that familiar with the tactics these anglers were using to catch these monsters on swimbaits, but I was very interested. So somewhere in late 1998, I bought a 7 inch AC Plug. I took it with me to Lake Isabella while I was visiting my relatives in California, and I threw it religiously, but on most occasions, I never had so much as a follow. Then I went to the Big Bass World Championship with my brother Kurt, and we started talking with big bass hunters like Bill Seimantle, Ron Casner, and others. I decided that these tactics that they were describing would also work on the biggest bass back here on the East Coast. Why not?... They had been hitting large 8 and 10 inch shiners here and in Florida for years for us, so why not the big plugs and swimbaits? Bill Seimantle said, "Just Throw Them, and you will see!"
  In the following years, I bought just about every big trout and shad imitating lure on the market and tried them all. I fished Noxontown Lake in Delaware, for 2 years and caught more than 50 bass over 5 pounds on big baits of all kinds. Although the fish in Noxontown Lake and others here in the Northeast, are a Northern Strain and not as big as their west coast and Florida counterparts, I learned a lot about fishing these types of lures, and about the larger fish in the lake that like them. In 1999, I fished Noxontown Lake as much as I could, and soon after landed a bass that was just 4 ounces shy of the state record at 10.16 pounds! It appeared in Bassmaster magazine, local newspapers, and Bass Pro Shops Master catalogs. Although I have found that the trout plug bite is not as consistent for Florida strain fish as it is for Northern strain, I still managed quite a few big bass from Lake Walk-In-Water and Lake Jackson before it dried up, and several other Florida hotspots. I have also come to realize that big bass will eat trout lures whether or not there are any trout in the lake. Lakes like Noxontown and Killens have demonstrated this quite clearly to me over the last few years.
  Now, there is no way to fully explain trout plug or Swimbait fishing for big bass in a few pages, so what we are going to cover here are the basic techniques and tackle you will need to catch these big bass in the Northeast. Hopefully, armed with the basics, you'll be able to go out and learn your own little tricks to hooking and landing big bass on trout plugs, and big swimbaits.
  Each of the big trout lures has a unique personality that, to truly master, requires many hours on the water. After trying dozens of trout plugs, I can still only say that I am very good with fishing a handful of them. If you're just starting out using these big baits, it's probably best to pick a few proven baits and work hard with them.
  Throwing Big Baits
  Tackle
  The right tackle is critical when you are throwing big baits for bass. The wrong tackle and a good lure will catch fish, but if you are serious about catching the fish of a life time, you can't leave anything to chance. If the wrong tackle lands 2 out of 5 fish that hit your lure, the right tackle will probably land 4 of those 5, and you never know if one of those that get away will be the ten pound plus hawg that you spent your whole life waiting for. Remember, the right tackle is CRITICAL when you are throwing big baits for bass!
  Rods
  When I first got into fishing these big baits I tried flipping sticks, 7 foot crankbait rods, 7 foot "Ugly sticks" rated up to 30 lb line, 7 foot worm rods; I tried them all! During the course of trying all those different rods I lost a lot of fish, especially on the hookset. At the time there simply were no good commercially made trout plug rods that I could find here in the Northeast. G. Loomis had some very expensive rods that worked OK, but even those rods were too stiff in the tip for many applications.,p>
  When you are throwing a giant bait that weighs between 2 and 7 ounces, you need a rod that is 8' long. Seven foot, ten inch rods work for most baits, but for the big stuff, 8' or longer is the best choice. Eight and a half foot is great, but there aren't many 8'6" blanks and for tournament bass fishing your rod almost always has to be under 8' in length. So after a lot of trial and error, I now have several rods that are made just for swimbaits. Now that it has become more well known, numerous companies are getting into the act of making rods for swimbaits and other big lures for bass. These rods are great for the 7 and 9" plugs and swimbaits. If you're going to go the custom way, I would recommend Furnace Bay or another good custom rod maker, as there are more and more now all over the country.
  Reels
  A good reel is very important, just as much as a good rod and line are. There are only two brands of reels you should check out. Get the largest reels that Shimano or Daiwa make. Basically what you get depends on how much you want to spend. Bass just don't pull much drag on 25 or 30lb test, so there's isn't a real reason to fish a bigger saltwater size reel unless you are trolling or fishing a really big bait. I fish Shimano exclusively so I can't really give good advice on the Abu Garcia/Diawa stuff, but as long as you get something in the larger sizes with a good free-spool and a smooth drag, you should be in good shape.
  Line
  Line is your third critical component. I fish Stren line in 25 to 30lb test. Other anglers swear by P-Line or Power Pro. Line is an area where your personal preference will determine what you use a little more. Bottom line, make sure it's heavy enough and make sure you have confidence in it. The new P-Line fluorocarbon is very hard to see in the water and is also very abrasion resistant in case the fish take you into really heavy cover. I have been using P-Line's fluorocarbon and like it a lot. Sequar is by all accounts a quality fluorocarbon as well. Berkley Vanish and P-Line "Floroclear" are not pure fluorocarbon and do not perform anywhere near the way pure fluorocarbon does.
  Hooks
  Hooks are as important as all of the other tools mentioned above combined! I used to think for the longest time that stock hooks were plenty good, but fishing big plugs, and numerous tournaments over the years, has proven me completely wrong. With the correct hooks Vs the stock hooks you will hook and land at least 3 times as many bass. Before I switched to Gamakatsu, I lost a few big bass, and that convinced me to switch to premium hooks. I now use 1/0 or 2/0 Gamakatsu round bend trebles on all of my 7 and 9 inch baits. These Gamakatsu hooks are so sharp that if you're using a two hook lure and you hook a fish on the front hook, the rear hooks will usually hook into the bass somewhere else. In other words, spend the money and replace the stock hooks or you will learn your lesson the hard way. For the really big baits, I use VMC's and I sharpen them with a file. It's about 80% as sharp as a new Gamakatsu hook, but you don't want to go to a small hook on a big lure. No matter what hooks you use, check the hook-points frequently and replace the hook if it gets dull.
  The Lures
  There at a large number of big baits on the market these days. I will discuss just the ones that I have used here in the Northeast and in Florida with some success.
  AC Plug / AC Minnow
  The AC Plug and Minnow are not quite as popular as they once were but they do catch fish. The baits come in 7, 9, and 12 inch versions. The minnow comes in 7 and 9 inch. I have caught a number of bass on the 7 inch minnow; it has a round bill, great action and catches fish. The Arbogast AC Plugs come with those chrome saltwater type hooks. Take them off, and replace them with some size 1/0 or 2/0 Gamakatsu trebles. If you do catch a few fish on your plug the paint tends to chip off. This can repaired with clear nail polish, and if you need to do it, it means you are catching big bass, so it is more than worth it!
  Stocker Trout
  The Stocker Trout has accounted for many big largemouth. It has a unique design with a plastic hinge in the middle of the bait which causes it to swim very much like a trout. I was shown this bait when I was fishing out in California one year, and brought a few back with me. It looks a lot like a trout in the water and really draws strikes. It comes in a 7 and a 9 inch version. The 7 inch has a very sharp hook but the 9 inch came with a chrome saltwater type hook, so I replaced it. A trailer hook is almost required on these baits especially in the 9 inch size. I like the Stocker Trout and have caught some good fish on it. The frustrating part is the number of fish that you will miss, even with the trailer hook. This is true all over the country when using these baits, but when you do land them, they are huge!
  Castaic Baits
  The soft trout started in a 9 inch version, and now comes in even a larger size. The lure has a plastic molded head and a rubber tail. The one hook setup is a real drawback to this lure though in my opinion. I have heard so many stories of big fish eating the trout whole and still not getting hooked, so use the treble that comes with it, as it is for balance, as well as for hooking the bass. It's also a good idea to either sharpen or replace the stock hooks on these baits.
  The Castaic Hardbait Trout is no longer in production but is really something to see if you have never seen one. They are the most realistic bait without a doubt. The paint jobs on the all wood plug are excellent. The plug also has a two hook setup which is nice. One drawback is the action. The plug swims OK but just doesn't quite look lifelike in the water. I have tried mine on many occasions but have only had two strikes on it. The plug bobs up and down like a trout dying on the surface. If you have the chance to get one for a reasonable price, I would recommend it.
  Locations
  A big part of the challenge of catching big bass is locating them. Giant bass need a steady food supply, lots of cover, and access to both deep and shallow water. When you're throwing big baits, this means finding ambush areas where shad or trout are likely to swim by. This could mean a shallow flat with a nearby drop-off or a long tapering point with deep water on either side where the wind blows insects and baitfish around the point creating a feeding area for the trout and shad and in turn, the bass.
  Other good locations include large laydowns on steep banks that allow bass to hang in deeper water, such as Turner's point, in the Sassafras River, but still stay close to shore where a baitfish might swim by. This type of cover is especially important in the afternoon hours when the sun drives the fish deeper but the wind and associated chop make for ideal swimbait throwing conditions. Look for these "combo" areas and you will find big bass lurking nearby. Whenever you find an area where there is deep water near the flats, and wood mixed with 2 or more types of grasses, you will find big bass.
  Best Times
  For big fish, the afternoon is prime time. It took me a long time to figure this out, but when I look back at all the fish over 5 pounds I ever caught out of Noxontown, or anywhere else, all but one fish came at midday and especially in the afternoon. For whatever reason, big fish seem to get really active on certain days in the mid afternoon. So although getting up early and fishing late has it's advantages for numbers of bass, if you are going to hunt true trophy bass, the afternoon is the best time.
  Techniques
  Many anglers ask me just how do I fish these giant baits? Well, the answer is pretty simple. Steadily....... I basically use one of two retrieves. Slow and steady across the surface allowing the tail of the plug to move back and forth making a small wake, and slow and steady underwater. I like to keep the plug about 2 to 3 feet down, not much deeper than that, and I just swim it along. You will get a feel for the right speed once you catch some fish. Basically, work the bait as naturally as possible, the same way a shad or trout moves. Now, here in the Northeast, there are not any trout in most of the waters, but if you get out past the Mississippi River, then bring your trout baits along. Like I mentioned before, bass here will hit the trout bait also, but I like to match the baits to the local forage most of the time. That's what the bass are looking for.
  Followers
Probably the most frustrating thing about throwing big plugs is that you will get follow ups from fish that won't strike the bait. This can be very frustrating and sometimes there is nothing you can do. What you can do though is mix things up on the days when the fish are following the lure a lot. Sometimes a very fast retrieve will get them, sometimes switching sizes and colors will do it. If you see a fish come up on the bait and you start ripping and jerking the bait, you can sometimes trigger a strike. Often, the fish will follow to within a few feet of the boat. If you really can't get them to strike, just remember where each fish was that followed your bait, and give them a try another time.
  How To Set The Hook
  I use a sweeping hookset usually to the side. You don't need to really cross their eyes, just hit back when you feel them, kind of like setting the hook with a spinnerbait. The one time when I will hit the fish hard is if I'm fishing subsurface and I lose contact with the bait because a fish has grabbed it and started swimming towards me or to the side. If you ever feel that, set the hook on the fish hard and fast.
  There are a lot of things to learn about catching monster bass on these baits, and I have covered only a few, as big bait fishing can't be taught or learned in a day, a week, or even a year. Like every technique time on the water will tell you what is right and that is wrong. Nothing ever beats hands on experience catching the fish on these baits. The long days of catching nothing can get frustrating, but if you stick with it and keep casting, one day that giant bass of a lifetime will hit your bait.
Visit Steve's site at www.skguideservice.com.
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